Back in the 1850s, Swiss watchmaking was genuinely a cottage industry; company owners would visit Swiss farming families in their homes at the end of summer, deliver to them raw watch parts, and, over the winter they would finish them and return them to the owner at the end of the winter. The owner would then have the parts assembled into watches and the farmers would take their cows back up the mountain now that the snow was gone.

America changed all this the exotically named Aaron Lufkin Dennison saw how rifles were mass-produced using identical machine-made parts; he realised that watches could be made similarly. Soon, America was overtaking Switzerland in watch production and also undercutting them in price; then, two unrelated events changed everything. The Swiss sent a delegation to the US to discover how the Americans were able to outproduce them, and a renegade watchmaker who had worked with Dennison and knew everything about the production system went to Switzerland. The delegation produced a report saying that the Swiss industry had to change, and the American Florentine Aristo Jones was on hand to teach them how to do it.

However, what Jones didn’t teach the Swiss was the incredible costs involved in setting up a factory before it could produce a single watch. Dennison’s operation had gone bankrupt three or four times before becoming very profitable, and the same fate awaited Jones. He went broke, and the factory was bought by a local businessman, Johannes Raussenbach. After his death, the firm was run by his son (also named Johannes), who ran it for 20 years. Unfortunately, he had no sons, so the business was now run by the husbands of his two daughters. One of the husbands was the famed psychologist Carl Gustav Jung, and this was how the father of analytical psychology became a director of IWC. It was this directorship which funded almost all of Jung’s research over the years.

As you might expect from the family name of the owners, the Raussenbachs and the location of the factory, Schaffhausen, IWC is in the German-speaking part of Switzerland, and almost completely surrounded by Germany, it is separated from Germany by the River Rhine. Its proximity to Germany came at a cost in April 1944, when USAAF bombers miscalculated their aiming point and bombed the IWC factory instead of their intended target across the border. Speaking of WW2, IWC was one of the very few Swiss watch firms that provided watches to both Germany and Britain during the conflict; let’s call that Swiss neutrality.

Swiss luxury watchmaker Oris has unveiled its latest collaboration with The Muppets, introducing the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition. Building on the success of the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, this stunning timepiece features a vibrant pink dial adorned with a baguette diamond at 12 o’clock, housed in a 34mm stainless steel case. Designed to capture Miss Piggy’s bold personality and timeless charm, the watch combines elegance and playfulness with a hidden gem: a polished case back revealing Miss Piggy’s portrait on a rotating lilac rotor.

Beyond its design, the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition celebrates Miss Piggy as a cultural icon who embodies confidence and individuality. Oris brought together six influential women worldwide, including jewelry designer Century Xie and Olympic swimmer Yusra Mardini, to highlight how Miss Piggy inspires women to embrace authenticity and pursue their dreams unapologetically. This collaboration reflects Oris’s dedication to creating meaningful partnerships that go beyond traditional watchmaking.

Rolf Studer, Oris Co-CEO, describes the timepiece as “for fabulous, independent individuals,” perfectly encapsulating Miss Piggy’s spirit. With its bold design, high-quality Swiss-made automatic movement, and luxurious craftsmanship, the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition brings joy and glamour to every wearer. Exclusively available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons boutiques in the UAE, this limited-edition watch is as unforgettable as the diva it celebrates.

From its groundbreaking debut in 1969 to its status as a cultural icon, the TAG Heuer Monaco has solidified its place in the pantheon of legendary timepieces. First introduced with its daring square case, left-hand crown, and striking blue dial, the Monaco was a bold statement of innovation and elegance. Its connection to motorsport and cinema, notably through Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans, elevated its status as a symbol of speed, precision, and style. Over the decades, TAG Heuer has continually refined the Monaco, blending its racing heritage with modern advancements to create timepieces that embody the thrill of the track and the artistry of Swiss craftsmanship.

The latest iteration of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph introduces a vibrant pink skeleton dial, merging playful aesthetics with its rich legacy. Inspired by the dazzling lights of Las Vegas, this striking design features a lightweight titanium case with a sleek black DLC coating, complemented by bold pink accents on the chronograph counters, hands, and seconds hand. Powered by the in-house Calibre Heuer 02, visible through the skeletonized dial and sapphire caseback, the watch offers unparalleled precision and reliability while showcasing its intricate mechanics.

Balancing style and functionality, the strap combines leather and rubber for versatile wear, making it perfect for both everyday adventures and high-octane moments. This modern masterpiece captures the essence of individuality and boldness, reminding wearers to embrace life with the same energy and excitement as the city that inspired it. The TAG Heuer Monaco Pink Chronograph is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation, celebrating a legacy that continues to evolve with every tick.

Hublot’s dedication to celebrating heritage and craftsmanship takes center stage with the unveiling of three extraordinary launches. Drawing inspiration from the rich cultural legacies of the UAE, Abu Dhabi, and Qatar, these exclusive editions highlight the seamless fusion of Swiss horological innovation and regional artistry. With designs that reflect the natural beauty and traditions of each location—whether through shimmering pearls, desert hues, or coastal elegance—Hublot once again proves its commitment to creating watches that are as meaningful as they are exquisite.

Classic Fusion & Classic Fusion Chronograph UAE edition

Classic Fusion Abu Dhabi Edition ( 42 mm & 33mm)

Qatar Special Pearl Collections

One of the great ironies of the watch world is that while quartz technology almost killed off the mechanical watch, nowadays, the tables have turned, and it has become difficult to buy a quartz watch, except at the very bottom of the price range. But, as always in watchmaking, there are exceptions and I want to discuss one of them here.

The biggest surprise at this month’s Geneva auctions was at Phillips when Paul Boutros called out an opening bid of ‘5 million’ when an early F-P Journe was offered. The watch finally hammered for almost $8.5 million US, cementing Journe’s position as the most desirable of the current crop of independent watchmakers. Yet, along with his tourbillons and Centigraphes, Journe also makes a revolutionary quartz watch – the Élégante. Journe watches – at least the mechanical ones – have a family look, somewhere between Jules Verne and steampunk, but not the Élégante; gone is the round case, gone are the guilloche finishes. Replaced by a simple flat tonneau with visible screw heads on the bezel and a bright white dial which retains Journe’s Art Nouveau-style numerals and railway lines seconds track. The dial is also unusual as there is a large space at the periphery of the dial where the 4 would normally sit. This is the unique feature of the Élégante, a mechanical inertia detector, as long as the watch is being worn, the detector is in motion, but if the watch sits for more than 35 minutes, it goes to ‘sleep’, and the hands cease to move. But the electronics remain alert, and as soon as the watch is picked up, the hands instantly move to the correct time. This gives the watch another useful benefit: the battery lasts for at least 10 years as it isn’t always powering the hands.

The Cartier Tank is ubiquitous and probably the most well-known watch design in the world, but in the 1960s, there were only three stores where you could buy one, the Cartier boutiques in Paris, London and New York. I shall explain how it moved from obscurity to omnipresent and how that was solely due to cigarettes and cigarette lighters.

In the 1960s Robert Hoq owned a cigarette lighter firm called Golden Match, they were a middle-of-the-road firm, above the disposables but not prestigious like Dupont or Dunhill. In the 60s style was everything and Hoq decided to produce a stylish lighter, he hired a designer who came up with a look based on a Greek column with a fluted body and a horizontal band at the top. He realised that having a prestigious name would massively help sales, so he approached the most famed jeweller in Paris – but Van Cleef and Arpels turned him down, so he approached Cartier who gladly accepted the offer. The Must de Cartier lighter became the first Cartier branded product to be sold outside the three boutiques.

Anton Rupert was a South African businessman with interests mostly in alcohol and tobacco, his European interests were grouped under the Rembrandt name, he saw the success of the lighter and approached Cartier asking for a licence to produce and sell cigarettes under their brand, knowing how much money they were making from the lighters, Cartier agreed. The cigarettes were another major success, and Robert and Anton soon got together to make an offer to buy Carier Paris outright, which they did in 1972. One of the first thing they did was to issue licenses for other items bearing the Cartier name, sunglasses, scarves, and even cars soon bore the name and brought in more money for the partners.

The decision was made to withdraw the licenses slowly and to take over production themselves, the first item to be made and sold was the Must de Cartier Tank watch in 1976, made in both men’s and women’s sizes, it became available in a range of dial colours and designs with both mechanical and quartz movements. It was so successful that the partners could purchase both the London and New York boutiques, bringing all of Cartier back under a single ownership for the first time since the family had split it up. The irony is that despite its success the Must disappeared from the catalogue as the brand moved out of the affordable end of the market, but I am happy to say that it reappeared two years ago and now vintage Must de Cartier watches are eagerly sought by collectors.

In a captivating conversation, Laurent Lecamp, Global Managing Director of Montblanc, delves into the fascinating world of Minerva, a heritage watchmaker under Montblanc’s umbrella. Speaking with Katia Jundi, founder of Katsbling, Lecamp discusses the intricate craftsmanship, rich history, and innovative design philosophy that define Minerva’s appeal to collectors worldwide. With a particular focus on the Middle East, he unveils the inspirations and challenges behind a new 10-piece limited edition created exclusively for the region.

[KJ] : So, Laurent, it’s been a while since your last visit to Dubai. What brings you here?
[LL] : A lot has happened, especially with Minerva, our high-end watch collection. Minerva’s exclusivity has drawn collectors worldwide, with pre-bookings happening even before the details of new pieces are announced. It reflects both trust in the brand and growing interest. Auctions have shown Minerva pieces exceeding expected values, reinforcing the impact of this heritage brand.

[KJ]: Tell me about the Middle East edition.
[LL]: The Middle East is a key market for us, with a growing community of collectors in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, and Saudi Arabia. We recently launched a boutique in Saudi Arabia, where exclusivity is highly valued. For this region, we’ve created a 10-piece limited edition with a distinctive green dial inspired by local preferences. The green tone is refined, akin to an emerald, and tailored to the collectors here.

[KJ]: What makes Minerva unique in today’s luxury watchmaking market?
[LL]: Minerva’s heritage dates back to 1858, and its focus has always been on exceptional craftsmanship. Our watches are handmade in a small Swiss village with only 30-40 artisans dedicated to Minerva. Each watchmaker works on one piece at a time, and customers have the unique opportunity to meet the artisan behind their watch. This human touch and commitment to preserving traditional techniques, such as polishing inner angles by hand using locally sourced wood, set Minerva apart. Additionally, Minerva can repair any movement it has produced since 1902. That’s true sustainability—ensuring the longevity of a timepiece for future generations.

[KJ]: You mentioned a reversed movement earlier. Can you elaborate on that innovation?
[LL]: Inspired by my daughter’s curiosity about watch mechanics, we decided to reverse the movement, revealing components traditionally hidden. This required adding 21 new components to maintain functionality while preserving the original structure. The result is a patented design that showcases the beauty of Minerva’s craftsmanship in a completely new way.

[KJ]: How do you maintain traditional techniques while embracing innovation?
[LL]: We honor our history by using rare materials like German silver and implementing dying techniques, such as hand-polishing with wood from local mountains. However, we also innovate—our “natural distressing” process involves using local limestone to create unique finishes, blending tradition with nature’s touch.

[KJ]: What challenges did you face creating the Middle East edition?
[LL]: Perfecting the green dial was a complex process. The color changes when paired with sapphire crystal, requiring multiple prototypes to achieve the desired hue. Additionally, assembling the 373 components of the movement by hand—and then disassembling and reassembling for precision—demands meticulous work.

[KJ]: Tell me about the packaging.
[LL]: Packaging is as vital as the watch. Inspired by Japanese secret boxes, our packaging is crafted from Swiss wood and designed to be both beautiful and interactive. It’s a luxury detail that reflects the care we put into every aspect of our timepieces.

[KJ]: Why focus on exclusivity for the Middle East?
[LL]: Collectors here appreciate something unique yet proven. They prefer adaptations of successful concepts rather than entirely new designs. This resonates with our approach to create bespoke luxury that respects both tradition and innovation.

[KJ]: Thank you for your time, Laurent. I look forward to seeing what’s next for Minerva and Montblanc.
[LL]: Thank you, Katia. It’s always a pleasure to share our story.