The Allure of Designer Chokers

The perfect accessory for modern elegance
By Mariam Yasin

These exquisite chokers, crafted by the most renowned jewelry maisons, are not just accessories but masterpieces that adorn the neck with unparalleled sophistication. Each choker tells a unique story, featuring the finest gemstones and intricate designs. Discover our curated selection of the top 5 designer chokers that truly dazzle under the spotlight.

Louis Vuitton – Deep Time Bones

Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time High Jewelry collection continues its epic journey through the millennia, spanning the birth of the planet to the beginning of life. Exalting both structure and movement, Bones is Deep Time’s homage to the architecture of humanity, and highlights geology’s link to life and form. This exquisite necklace is a graphic construction centered on a LV Monogram Star cut diamond and further fringed with around 100 custom-cut diamonds.

Bulgari – Serpenti Sapphire Echo Necklace

The Serpenti Sapphire Echo Necklace by Bulgari embodies the brand’s visionary spirit, capturing the essence of metamorphosis in its versatile High Jewelry design. Crafted in white gold, the necklace features two pear-cut Sri Lankan sapphires, each weighing 37.34 carats, originally from a 1930s Bulgari piece owned by an Italian noblewoman. The sapphires are connected by round-cut diamonds and the necklace’s serpentine structure is adorned with buff-top sapphires, step-cut diamonds, and pavé-set diamonds, with emeralds illuminating the snake’s eyes. The detachable sapphire pendants can also be worn as earrings, showcasing the piece’s unique and functional design.

Jacob & Co – Waterfall Collection

The WaterFall Collection Diamond Choker by Jacob & Co is an epitome of elegance, featuring a breathtaking cascade of 129.00 carats of Princess Cut Diamonds. This dazzling masterpiece is meticulously crafted in the lustrous embrace of 18K white gold, exuding an aura of unparalleled grace and sophistication. Each diamond sparkles like a droplet of a serene waterfall, making this choker a true testament to luxurious craftsmanship and timeless beauty.

Chopard – Red Carpet Collection

From their Red Carpet Collection, this breathtaking choker in ethical 18-carat white gold and titanium is a true masterpiece. It showcases a dazzling 15.92-carat emerald-cut sapphire and a magnificent 10.06-carat emerald-cut emerald, both set amidst a stunning array of oval-shaped sapphires totaling 52.42 carats and emeralds totaling 39.74 carats. To further elevate its allure, the piece is adorned with 8.36 carats of sparkling diamond brilliants. This is a show-stopping creation by any standard, designed to captivate and enchant at every turn.

Pomellato – ‘Ode to Milano’ Urban Bloom

From the captivating ‘Ode to Milano’ Collection, Urban Bloom brings to life the enchanting gardens that flourish amidst the city’s towering skyscrapers and hidden courtyards. This exquisite choker, adorned with a mesmerizing array of pink and violet sapphires, delicately embraces the neck, transforming it into a canvas of vibrant, blooming artistry. Each sapphire sparkles with the charm of Milan’s secret gardens, making this piece a true masterpiece of elegance and imagination.

Elegant Ladies Dials

3 jeweled timepieces to keep on your radar
By Mariam Yasin

Elegant dials are the epitome of sophistication and there are three jeweled ladies’ timepieces should be on your radar this season. Crafted by high-end luxury maisons, these watches feature intricate designs and sparkling gemstones that add a touch of glamour to any ensemble. With their exquisite craftsmanship and timeless appeal, these timepieces are a must-have for any discerning collector.

Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock Collection

Nothing says summer quite like this Rainbow Bird on a Rock watch, the timepieces feature Schlumberger’s iconic bird motif, crafted from platinum, 18k yellow gold and diamonds. Innovative mechanisms allow the gemstones and bird motif to gracefully spin around the dial as the wearer moves. Featuring 18k white gold and diamond watch featuring over 3 total carats of aquamarines. Each Swiss-made timepiece features over 3 carats of diamonds on the case and dial. The diamonds are different diameters, strategically placed to minimize the appearance of metal and enhance the brilliance of the timepiece. The Bird on a Rock timepieces feature an alligator strap.

Vacheron Constantin – Égérie – The Pleats of Time

The Égérie concept watch stems from an artistic collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and Yiqing Yin, a “One of Not Many” talent. United in their quest for refinement and a shared vision of excellence, the Manufacture and the Haute Couture designer have come up with the Égérie The Pleats of time, a concept watch. This creation orchestrates a dialogue between three worlds: Haute Horlogerie, Haute Couture and Haute Parfumerie. The roundness of the 37 mm pink gold case embellished with diamonds, the ‘pleats’ pattern adorning the powdered lilac dial, as well as the asymmetrical geometry so cherished by the Maison whose name appears at 8 o’clock in a diagonal with the moon phase and crown at 2 o’clock… All combine to create a refined and original feminine silhouette into which Yiqing Yin has instilled an aesthetic appeal that awakens the senses. The Maison and the Haute Couture designer also called on French master perfumer Dominique Ropion to craft an original fragrance that is encapsulated in the watch strap.

Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

Paying tribute to nature, a source of inspiration for the Maison since its creation, the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch celebrates the freshness of a summer morning. This new creation brings corollas into bloom within the Van Cleef & Arpels garden. White- and yellow-gold butterflies rendered in plique-à-jour enamel not only tell the time, but flutter off thanks to an on-demand animation module that also breathes life into the flowers and their stems. Created in vallonné enamel, the corollas display azure nuances complemented by spessartite garnet pistils. Against the intensity of matte mother-of-pearl, the dial displays a poetic scene merging the foreground and background to illustrate precious greenery. The flowers, resplendent with their champlevé enamel leaves and surrounded by blades of grass in tsavorite garnets and plique-à-jour enamel, are supported by stems featuring sculptural miniature painting for a depth effect. This bucolic landscape offers a vision of the Poetry of Time in which the hours tick by in harmony with the eternal cycle of nature.

Bulgari Unveils Aeterna

The most extraordinary high-end collection ever created
By Mariam Yasin

Infused with the same visionary spirit of the Eternal City, the everlasting source of inspiration of Bvlgari, the Roman Jeweler unveils to the world “Aeterna”, the new High-End collection, paying tribute to the Maison’s 140th anniversary and to its ability to reinvent itself, continuously interpreting the spirit of each era.
The new collection presents an unprecedented richness that is rooted in a deep legacy and projected into the future with a contemporary and timeless aesthetic, ultimately eternal. Consisting of over 500 masterpieces, including High Jewelry and High Jewelry Watches, High-End Bags and Fragrances, Aeterna epitomizes the superlative Art of the Magnificent Roman High Jeweler for gems, time, precious skins and olfactive emotions.

Bulgari’s iconic Tubogas design, a symbol of ultimate modernity, meets the eternal grace of the romantic floral motif engraved on the striking oval-cut 31.07 carats Zambian emerald protagonist of the Tubogas Flower of Time necklace. The outstanding gem is exalted by a graphic layout of 16 buff-top rubellites and pavé-set diamonds, adding extra preciousness to this remarkable creation, spreading a message of visual marvel and tactile delight. The necklace is unveiled with matching earrings, that combine natural lines with striking colors and a sleek, modern vibe. Featuring a drop-style design, they include cabochon rubellites mixed with buff-top emeralds and diamond pavé.

A tribute to Rome’s enduring transcendence, the Mosaic of Time is one of the most intricate and technically challenging creations in the Aeterna High Jewelry collection. One hundred-fifty distinct modules are perfectly joined to create a mosaic of diverse colors and gem cuts, vibrating with splendor and elegance. Revealing a delicate scalloped silhouette, this incredible necklace, worked in a gentle pastel palette, combines pear-shaped Paraiba tourmalines, cushion-cut pink tourmalines, turquoises, buff-top emeralds, pavé-set diamonds, as well as contrasting onyx and mother-of-pearl details, in a balanced and refined celebration of creativity and craftsmanship. The necklace is unveiled with a coordinated timepiece and matching ring. The ring features an intricate design where a striking central cushion Paraiba tourmaline is surrounded by a mosaic of turquoises, onyx and 20 buff-top emeralds.

Conveying an ethereal sense of perpetual movement, the Sequence of Eternity earrings show a directional arrangement of diamonds, symbolizing a radiant future. At the center of these stunning pieces, two Mozambican oval-cut rubies, weighing 8.92 and 8.06 carats, steal the spotlight with outstanding magnificence, further exalted by three diamond drops representing the past, present, and future.

Rings Over 1 Million USD

The next level of bling
By Mariam Yasin

Rings worth millions of dollars epitomize the pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity, elevating any jewelry collection to an extraordinary level that few can ever dream of attaining. These exquisite masterpieces are often adorned with rare, flawless diamonds or vibrant, high-carat gemstones set in meticulously crafted designs by the world’s most renowned jewelers. Each piece is a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship, rarity, and opulence, making them not just accessories but symbols of immense prestige and discernment.

Jacob & Co – Paraiba Tourmaline Cocktail Ring
Retail Price USD 6,400,000


The Paraiba Tourmaline Cocktail Ring showcases a Gubelin-certified, 44.88-carat oval natural Paraiba greenish-blue tourmaline at its center, radiating an enchanting, vivid hue that captivates the eye. Surrounding this extraordinary gemstone are 2.33 carats of white round-cut diamonds and 0.56 carats of delicate pink round-cut diamonds, artfully arranged as butterfly motifs on the gallery and shank, adding a whimsical touch to this exquisite piece. Crafted in a luxurious combination of platinum and 18K rose gold, this ring epitomizes refined elegance and exceptional craftsmanship, making it a standout addition to any high jewelry collection.

Tiffany & Co. – Blue Book Celeste Arrow Collection
Retail Price Over USD 1,000,000


This ring, crafted in a luxurious blend of 18k yellow gold and platinum, features a breathtaking diamond of over 16 carats as its centerpiece, radiating unmatched brilliance and fire. Complemented by meticulously placed diamond accents, this piece exemplifies the highest standards of elegance and sophistication. Such an extraordinary ring transforms any jewelry collection into a realm of sheer opulence, reserved for the most discerning connoisseurs and collectors.

Bulgari – High Jewelry Collection
Retail Price Over USD 1,000,000


This High Jewelry ring in platinum features an exquisite 8.08-carat oval Burma ruby, renowned for its coveted pigeon blood hue, embodying the pinnacle of rarity and beauty. Surrounding the central ruby are 26 fancy step-cut diamonds, totaling 1.78 carats, each meticulously chosen for their exceptional F-G color and VVS-VS clarity, enhancing the ring’s luxurious allure. Additionally, the pavé set diamonds, with a combined weight of 1.35 carats and rated D-F in color and IF-VVS in clarity, add a dazzling finishing touch, making this ring a masterpiece of unparalleled elegance and craftsmanship.

Tiffany Blue Book 2024

Tiffany Céleste High Jewelry Collection
By Mariam Yasin

Tiffany Céleste, the latest expression of Tiffany’s esteemed high jewelry collection. The otherworldly Tiffany High Jewelry celebrates Jean Schlumberger’s boundless imagination and his fascination with the mysteries of the universe. As the second Blue Book collection designed by Nathalie Verdeille—Tiffany’s Chief Artistic Officer of Jewelry and High Jewelry—Tiffany Céleste adapts and rediscovers Jean Schlumberger’s iconic interpretations of the sun, moon, stars, distant galaxies and fantasy worlds.

Global House Ambassador Nancy Ajram has become one of only two music icons to wear Tiffany & Co.’s 80-carat Empire Diamond, and the first person to don the internally flawless clarity grade stone in its new Lucida® Star Necklace setting. Previously worn by Beyoncé, the Empire Diamond is Tiffany’s largest diamond acquisition since the legendary 128.54-carat Tiffany Diamond in 1878. Nancy wore the extraordinary piece as part of a 220-carat high-jewelry look to celebrate the Blue Book 2024 Tiffany Céleste collection’s debut. The launch event, held at The Beverly Estate in Beverly Hills, California, highlighted the exceptional nature of Tiffany &Co.’s high jewelry.

Wings


Wings are a ubiquitous motif within Jean Schlumberger’s repertoire. Symbolizing flight and fantasy, the designer’s iconic wing silhouettes transform into a luminous story rendered in diamonds and sapphires. Inspired by Pegasus the elusive winged horse, diamond intensive creations pay homage to the figurative nature of this mythical creature evoking a divine and ethereal spirit.

Arrow


The Arrow chapter is inspired by elements of the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Trophée de Vaillance brooch. As if soaring through the sky from the release of a bow, the arrow motif is re-envisioned in intricate patterns that feature an exceptional suite of unenhanced esteemed Colombian emeralds.

Constellation


Drawing inspiration from Jean Schlumberger’s archival sketches and designs, the Constellation chapter is defined by elements reminiscent of star patterns. Captivating hues of blue, pink and star sapphires twinkle against a night sky of brilliant diamonds.

Icon Star


Inspired by an archival Jean Schlumberger sketch, this chapter explores the star silhouette as an iconic symbol of the universe, expressed in two suites that are characterized by inverted colors. One suite features a starry night of diamonds punctuated with sapphires while another evokes an evening sky comprised of blue zircons, freeform aquamarines, mother-of-pearl and diamonds.

Ray of Light


Inspired by archival Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany brooches that radiate gilded sunrays, this chapter features delicate expressions of elusive beams of light. The rays project outward from central stones. Red spinels emanate a fiery glow to luminescent designs as if beaming from the sun itself.

Apollo


The Apollo chapter draws its inspiration from the iconic Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Apollo brooch with new silhouettes based on the aesthetic of the original brooch. Bold pavé masterworks uplift exceptional yellow and white diamonds.

Floral & Fabulous

Must have jewelry pieces all about spring
By Mariam Yasin

Jewelry inspired by flowers and the vibrant energy of spring brings a touch of elegance and femininity to any collection. Each piece delicately captures the beauty and intricacy of nature’s blooms, from the graceful curves of petals to the sparkling brilliance of dew-kissed buds. Whether it’s a dainty floral pendant, a statement flower ring, or a pair of blossom-inspired earrings, these pieces exude timeless charm and sophistication.

Louis Vuitton – Blossom


The Maison now welcomes a special new ornamental stone – Amazonite – to the Color Blossom family. Named after the Amazon River in Brazil, where the stone was first believed to be discovered, Amazonite is celebrated for its minty blue-green hue and rich variety of tones from light green and turquoise to greenish blue. Paired with yellow gold to accentuate the stone’s unique color, the Amazonite flower opens endless possibilities for self-styling, layering and stacking alongside the full range of Color Blossom jewels.

Pasquale Bruni – Giardini Segreti Aura


For the first time, the Maison introduces bright yellow diamonds with Giadini Segreti Aura.This stunning reiteration radiates a soft and surprising light that is meant to illuminate the eye of the beholder. To add to this effect, the yellow diamond pavé is set on yellow gold, bringing new power and volume to the jewel.

Pasquale Bruni collection is available in Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons boutiques- Dubai Mall, Wafi Mall, and Mall of the Emirates.

Asprey – Daisy


A quintessential English flower is reimagined in vibrant jewels and these Daisy inspired rings, earrings, pedants and bracelets are the sublime result. Hand-cast in 18ct white gold, they hold a marquise-cut gemstone such as amethyst, aquamarine, yellow sapphire or garnet in each petal, while a dome in the centre is encrusted with glittering pavé-set diamonds. They come in matching sets or wear them individually for your own unique style.

Pomellato – Flower Power


Emulating the delicate fluctuations of the fading light of day, Pomellato crystallises this brief twilight moment in a spectacular imaginary aquatic flower ring that completes the theme. The quivering petals of the ring are set with a graduated palette of blue- grey spinels, sapphires and diamonds, like the subtle shades that appear at the end of the day.

David Webb – Asheville


Asheville by David Webb embraces a distinctive floral motif, but it doesn’t necessarily stem directly from a specific genus of flower, or even from the company’s robust design archives. The flower stands as a symbol of changing times, a reverence for nature, and a reawakening of the mind and spirit. The collection is named for Webb’s North Carolina hometown, where the designer received his earliest education in jewelry-making and developed an affinity for gardens and flowers. These unique pieces feature 18k gold and platinum with cabochon ruby, pink opal, emerald beads, carved and cabochon turquoise, brilliant-cut diamonds and white enamel.

Pomellato x Katsbling

Interview with Creative Director, Vincenzo Castaldo

[KJ] Welcome to Dubai, Vincenzo! We’ve come to know Pomellato as such an Italian brand rich in heritage, tell us more about your two decades of experience as Creative Director of the brand.

[VC] Thank you, Dubai is an amazing city! Well, no need to say that it’s an important achievement for me. My approach is very respectful of Pomellato’s heritage and DNA. I’ve had the opportunity to add depth to Pomellato’s exclusive style and at the same time I could express my creativity while respecting the brand’s heritage.


[KJ] We know that Milan is big source of inspiration for you, where else do you get your inspiration from? And how does it translate into the creative process?

[VC] For sure art, design, nature and our archives are always important and recurring sources but it’s true that you can find inspiration everywhere as a mood, an atmosphere, a relation with people and things around you can be able to ignite your creativity. Creativity is deeply connected to inspiration and to an open-minded approach.

Overall, I would say that inspiration is something very unpredictable that belongs to the present. You can never plan it, it arrives in a blink of an eye, other times it gives you hidden signs which are harder to decipher. There are no rules and you always have to be in constant relation with it in order to create a deep dialogue with the brand’s DNA and yourself. My team, as well as our atelier, are fundamental to the creative process. From research to the evolution of the first ideas, it is also through teamwork that the creative flow emerges.


[KJ] What are your most in demand collections /pieces?

[VC] Gold and color are defining traits of Pomellato so I would say [our most popular collections are] Iconica and Nudo.

Iconica is the first collection that I designed and created as the Creative Director of the brand. The collection embodies our love for sensual volumes, for roundness; it talks about the opulence of the Pomellato style and witnesses our passion for chains with irregular rhythms. I think it best captures our spirit, rooted in the Milanese’s goldsmith tradition.

Nudo, which means naked in Italian, is our must-have! Nudo is color, transparency and light. It’s a very simple idea, perfectly executed. Born out of a daring creative intuition of transforming the solitaire into a passepartout ring, ironic and elegant, shifting the attention and the leading role from the diamond to the colored gemstone. Its construction – thanks to a minimal setting – allows the stone to emerge “naked” in all its beauty.


[KJ] How has the brand and collections evolved during your time at Pomellato?

[VC] I have tried to explore new territories by giving interpretations and evolutions to the brand while remaining consistent and maintaining our unmistakable style. It was like using brand’s calligraphy to write new stories.

[KJ] How important is the Middle Eastern customer when it comes to your designs and materials that you choose to use?

[VC] When we work on new creations, rather than a particular woman, we prefer to visualize “occasions”, ways of wearing our jewelry. At the end of the day, the mission of every Pomellato piece of jewelry is to offer an object of beauty for self-expression, in everyday life. That is why it is so nice to see it worn by women all over the world, and seeing it on women in Dubai was exciting for me – and definitely a source of pride.


[KJ] Tell us more about your latest launch, Pom Pom Dot? What makes this collection unique?

[VC] When creating this collection, I was looking for something that could express the Pomellato style intended for a more minimal taste, with an unmistakable stylistic mark and with a link to our past. Looking through the house’s archives, a buttoned-shape gold necklace from 1974 caught my eye and it was the perfect starting point for something that could be expressed in a piece of jewelry to be worn every day.

We came up with the idea of creating a double-sided button to add playfulness to the original button. The button design is inspiring in its simplicity, it’s effortlessly chic and able to convey many messages and personal meaning. For me the button also has a cute, tender aspect because when you happen to find a button, instinctively you keep it with you, you save it because you think it might be useful. Pomellato loves to transform these gentle gestures into precious little masterpieces.

Hublot X Katsbling

Interview with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe

[KJ] Hi Ricardo, thanks for taking the time to share the inside scoop on your latest novelties that launched this Watches and Wonders. Can you tell us more about what’s new?

[RG] The latest collection that we’ve just launched at Watches & Wonders is a perfect representation of the Art of Fusion: Materials, Movement and Design. We have released several references with the in-house chronograph Unico movement. Each piece in a unique material: sapphire, ceramic or magic gold and shows our mastery of materials. The main focus of the booth was also centred around our in-house chronograph. We also presented several novelties in the Big Bang, a new Manufacture Piece and have widened our range of Classic Fusion models in 29mm.


[KJ] At Hublot, you love to push the boundaries of watchmaking – tell us more about The Big Bang MP 11 new sapphire edition.

[RG] The MP-11 is a unique manufacture movement piece which combines our mastery of coloured sapphire with the ingenuity of our Manufacture Piece movements. We are presenting an entirely new sapphire colour: water blue. Our manufacture is always looking new ways to innovate in terms of materials, and by presenting a new sapphire colour, a world first, we position ourselves as a leader in coloured sapphire.


[KJ] Ceramic is a material that you use frequently in your collections, is there any specific reason why you choose ceramic? Does it relate to how you can play with color such as your new release, the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic?

[RG] Ceramic is a material that Hublot has mastered over the years. We were the first brand to bring vivid colour ceramic to the market with the Big Bang Unico Red Magic in 2018. From then, we brought yellow ceramic, blue, and have gone on to create Magic Gold, a special unscratchable 18K gold and ceramic alloy. We hold patents on all of these innovations and are proud of the R&D that has gone through every step. Hublot can pride itself on being the only luxury watch manufacturer that has mastered the art of vivid colour ceramic. Today, we unveil yet another variation: orange ceramic. This is unique to the brand, and a colour that won’t bee seen at any other watch maker. Ceramic is part of our DNA.


[KJ] Are there any other novelties that stand out for you this year? Tell us more.

[RG] We started off the year with a true stand-out piece, our MP-10 that was launched at LVMH Watch Week in Miami. What is so unique about this watch is that it reinvents the self-winding system through vertical weights. By displaying the hours, minutes and the power reserve in a totally new way, we are able to achieve a singular watch that captures the philosophy of innovation we value at Hublot. It is unique, different and first. With no boundaries in terms of design, movement or materials. It showcases the best of the manufacture.

Other novelties from Watches & Wonders would include:

The Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu in Sapphire represents the Art of Fusion, between the world of Maxime Plescia Buchi’s tattoo art and Hublot’s mastery of sapphire, offering a complex geometrically chiseled sapphire case. A fusion of unique design and unique material.
The Big Bang Integrated Time Only in 38mm is a modern reinterpretation of the iconic Big Bang.
The Classic Fusion 29mm takes the iconic design of the Classic Fusion and offers a new, smaller size.


[KJ] Tell us more about your creation process. How long does it take to bring a new time
piece to life?

[RG] It all depends on the model of course. This can take anywhere from a few months to several years depending on the complexity of the watch. The MP-10 for instance took almost 5 years of research and development to test and perfect the highly complex movement. From inception to final design, this can take many years of trial and error. There exists an important gap between the first idea and the final product. Imagining a piece and assembling the piece are very different tasks.

[KJ] We all want to know, what’s your all-time favourite Hublot timepiece and why?

[RG] The Hublot Big Bang All Black from 2006. 18 years ago, together with Jean-Claude Biver, we shocked the watch industry by launching a concept of doing an all-black watch where you cannot really see the time. Actually it is not true to say that you cannot read the time on the watch, as if you position the watch correctly in the good lightning, you can see the hands and therefore read the time!

In 2006, Hublot created a dichotomy, as the Maison was adored by some and criticized by others for this “out of the box” idea of combining a black case and a black dial with pitch-black hands. It was a thunderstorm that we created, people said that we would do anything for getting attention on the brand. But today we all know that the first All Black watch was much more than just an ephemeral fashion statement: black-on-black has become a constant feature in the watch world. I am so proud to have been part of this journey in creating a milestone for the industry!


[KJ] What’s next for Hublot as a brand? Anything exciting plans in the works that you can share with us?

[RG] 2024 will continue to be an exciting year for Hublot – we will be on the pitch at the Euro 2024 in Germany watching every moment of the tournament. We are honoured to have Kylian Mbappe as the face of our campaign and to embody Hublot’s love for football. Hublot loves Football and this will be our fifth time joining UEFA for the UEFA EURO! We will also have exciting announcements with our Ambassador Daniel Arsham.

MB&F M.A.D. Gallery

Global Highlights Tour - Geneva Watch Auction: XIX
By Mariam Yasin

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is delighted to showcase the Global Highlights Tour of The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX at MB&F M.A.D Gallery in Dubai Mall from the 18th to the 20th of April, 2024.

MB&F sharing a similar appreciation for high quality and design to Phillips is proud to host, the Global Highlights Tour, a prelude to the Geneva Watch Auction: XIX, which will take place on 11 and 12 May 2024 in Geneva, and will share Italian watch collector and publisher Guido Mondani’s private collection including over 40 consigned wristwatches.

As a leading global platform for buying and selling 20th and 21st century works, Phillips offers dedicated expertise in the areas of Modern and Contemporary Art, Design, Photographs, Editions, Watches, and Jewels.

Among the notable hero pieces are the Two-Crown Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 2523/1, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ‘John Player Special’ Ref. 6241, and a Rolex Ref. 6102 featuring a ‘Caravel’ Cloisonné Enamel Dial. Also of significance is a potentially one-of-a-kind Stainless-Steel A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 boasting a Blue Dial, along with the inaugural appearance at auction of the Platinum Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain.

Visit Dubai’s MB&F M.A.D Gallery from 18th to 20th of April for an unforgettable journey through time.

Watches & Wonders 2024

Round up of the best in novelties
By Mariam Yasin

Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year showcased an extraordinary array of novelties that left enthusiasts and connoisseurs in awe. From groundbreaking complications to exquisite design innovations, the event featured the best of the best from leading watchmakers around the world. From intricate tourbillons to elegant dress watches, each creation epitomized the pinnacle of craftsmanship and innovation in the horological world. Here is a round up of some timepieces that stood out from the crowd.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC sets a new bar in high-end mechanical watchmaking. Never before has a mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic been made so slim – even thinner than a coin. An achievement that exemplifies Bvlgari’s daring streak and relentless drive to keep pushing boundaries, the benchmark now stands at 1.70 millimeters.

Consider the significance of a 1.70 mm thickness – a ninth world record that introduces a novel standard in watchmaking. This new Octo Finissimo Ultra is not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced: it is also the world’s thinnest COSC chronometer. This milestone reflects a rigorous process, underscored by a commitment to reevaluate, and transcend the conventions of traditional high watchmaking, propelling venerable craftsmanship into a contemporary context. As a hallmark of its era, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081), a new milestone in the history of watchmaking, is being introduced in limited series of 20 pieces.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Choronograph

This new Cartier Privé launch is an opportunity to discover a new complication making its debut in the collection: the single-button chronograph and its Manufacture 1928 MC calibre. First introduced on a Tortue watch in 1928, this complication was notably reinterpreted in 1998 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris with the sophisticated details we see today: blued-steel apple-shaped hands, a hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangular motifs on the four corners of the dial.

To enhance the legibility of the dial and make chronographic precision even more accessible,the rail-track has been placed on the outside of the Roman numerals. Free of any additional detail, the entire dial space is devoted to the two counters. Start, stop and reset: the three functions are concentrated in a single push-button integrated into the crown and is activated in a single motion. The movement is 4.3 mm thick, making it the Maison’s thinnest chronograph.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit

With the Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit, the collection welcomes a new model combining the Maison’s watchmaking and jewellery expertise, and whose exceptional refinement has been saluted by the Poinçon de Genève. The 41 mm-diameter case, as well as the entire dial, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet in ethical 18-carat white gold, are set with meticulously cut diamonds. This represented a significant challenge, taking the collection to a new jewellery peak and evoking the celestial beauty of stars reflected on glaciers. Making no compromises in terms of technical expertise, this true collector’s timepiece benefits from the watchmaking savoir-faire of Chopard Manufacture embodied in the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.41-L movement, with automatic winding via a micro-rotor ensuring a 65-hour power reserve.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Drawing on the extensive calendar expertise it has acquired since introducing the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC now pushes the boundaries once again with its first secular perpetual calendar. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules.

A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100. Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double MoonTM phase display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case and a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

Jacob & Co Astronomia Régulateur

Jacob & Co.’s latest release introduces a groundbreaking interpretation of the régulateur watch, featuring a distinctive 3D floating movement housed with a 43mm rose gold case. With separate displays for hours, minutes, and seconds, the timepiece is powered by the innovative caliber JCAM56 and boasts a remarkable 552 components. The vertical movement completes a full rotation every minute, a first in high caliber watchmaking, with the seconds dial spinning counterclockwise alongside a flying tourbillon rotating on two axes. The watch, encased in sapphire, offers a clear view of the translucent blue sub-dials, epitomizing high precision watchmaking while revolutionizing the régulateur display.

The Astronomia Régulateur’s separate display arms spin in sync with the movement’s rotation while a patented constant force device ensures steady energy flow to the intricate movement, enhancing accuracy and performance.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Pushing the boundaries of inventiveness further than ever, the new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. Beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication. Incorporating almost eight decades of accumulated expertise in the tourbillon regulating mechanism, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, features a newly developed tourbillon configuration that rotates on three axes. In doing so, it creates a completely new kinematic effect for Jaeger-LeCoultre resembling a spinning top.

Fitted with a cylindrical hairspring, the Heliotourbillon takes this thinking further, with a newly developed construction comprising three titanium cages rotating on three axes. The first cage is set at a 90-degree angle to the balance wheel and rotates perpendicular to it. The second cage is set at 90 degrees to the first (thus, on the same plane as the balance wheel). Together, these two cages are constrained by an axis tilted at 40 degrees and make a full rotation in 30 seconds. The third cage is perpendicular to the second and makes a full rotation in 60 seconds.  Supported on ceramic ball bearings to minimise friction, the tourbillon consists of 163 components and weighs less than 0.7 grams.

Montblanc Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

Montblanc returns with a new 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, showcasing more fascinating details to be discovered. This new limited edition sees the addition of five apertures into the case band, allowing light to flood into the hand-finished manually wound movement. Montblanc’s designers have taken a truly architectural approach to the entire timepiece in order to create a play of light and depth flowing through the movement constructed on pillars, so that the wearer can fully admire the 291 components via five different crystal windows. For the delight of those peering into the depths of the movement, this latest limited edition comes with a new movement, the Calibre MB M17.26.

This new limited edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with an elegant horizontal satin finishing. It is fitted with a white gold fluted bezel that has been inspired by Minerva’s first fluted bezel dating back to 1927, adding a touch of finesse to the model. Adding another modern twist to the timepiece, the German silver plates and bridges have been colored in a contemporary blue, providing a contrast with the rest of the movement, yet matching the tone of the blue sfumato calf leather strap.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric

Parmigiani Fleurier not only redefines the time-measuring tool but invites it to dance, free of all constraints. This Toric is not a rebellion, but a gentle revolution, a vital force pushing performance and aesthetics into an unexplored realm of serenity. Refined in its design, it transcends established watchmaking norms, flirting with the boundaries of the possible to outline the contours of an ever-evolving luxury.

With the Toric, Parmigiani Fleurier embraces the colors of the earth and nature, directly drawn from the chromatic universe of Le Corbusier, master of purism. In this collection, Parmigiani Fleurier has orchestrated a dazzlingly unique color palette, playing harmonies with unparalleled finesse. Crafted in rose gold, the movement of the Toric Petite Seconde is entirely new and barely noticeable at first glance. Three large surfaces in 18ct rose gold serve as bridges, arranged in a pure geometric perspective. Only the two barrels and the regulating organ are visible. This development with its unprecedented architecture, with its large bridges decorated with Côtes de Fleurier alternating with a sandblasted plate, references the great tradition of watchmaking in a minimalist and contemporary aesthetic configuration.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Intense green has been added to the dials and interchangeable straps of four new Overseas models in pink gold, a first for this collection. In perfect harmony with the spirit of travel, this new hue can now be found on the dials of the 35mm gemset, 41 mm date, 42.5 mm chronograph and 41 mm dual time models. Water-resistant to 150 metres, each of these new timepieces is equipped with a top-quality self-winding calibre featuring meticulous finishing. The movements feature an oscillating weight engraved with the collection’s emblematic compass rose. On these four models, just as on all Overseas watches, the pink gold bracelet with folding clasp is easily adjustable. It can be replaced by a calfskin leather strap or a green rubber strap, each with an interchangeable pin buckle.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

Architectural, geometric and intricately faceted, the DEFY Skyline’s 42mm steel case is a modernized take on the earliest DEFY’s octagonal case with a multi-sided bezel. Retaining the same DNA of robustness and durability as its predecessors while bringing an edgier and more contemporary aesthetic and proportions. In the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, the pushers follow the sharply drawn lines of the case, while the screw-down crown emblazoned with the star emblem helps ensure a water-resistance of 100 metres (10ATM).

Available in metallic black, blue or silver, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph’s dial pairs the collection’s signature starry sky-patterned dial featuring engraved four-pointed stars with the traditional El Primero dial configuration. Three slightly oversized and overlapping counters show the elapsed seconds and minutes of the chronograph, as well as the constant running seconds. The date window – matching the colour of the dial – is positioned at 4:30, another El Primero signature. The flange ring with the 1/10th of a second scale has twelve facets, the form of the dodecagonal bezel and serving as extensions of the hour markers.