Watches and Wonders 2025, the year’s most anticipated horological event, unveils a stunning collection of timepieces that are captivating the watchmaking community with their remarkable innovations and exquisite designs.This year, the spotlight shines on innovative designs and groundbreaking technologies that push the boundaries of what’s possible in watchmaking. From ultra-thin movements to complex complications, join us as we explore the top novelties of 2025, each a masterpiece of craftsmanship and innovation destined to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Patek Phillipe – Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Patek Philippe elevates the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time model, unveiled at Watches and Wonders with refined aesthetics and enhanced functionality. This model, known for its practical Travel Time function that displays two time zones, is now housed in a 42 mm white gold case with an elegant ivory lacquered dial and a new khaki green composite material strap. It features the innovative Calibre 26-330 S C FUS, which allows easy adjustment of local time via screw-down pushers, while maintaining precision across both displayed time zones. The watch also includes day/night indicators for each time zone and a date display linked to local time, all set beneath a sapphire crystal case back. The blend of vintage-inspired design with modern technological advancements makes this model a standout piece for global travelers seeking both function and style.
Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface by Vacheron Constantin, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, epitomizes the brand’s mastery of blending exquisite craftsmanship with mechanical sophistication. This timepiece, limited to 370 pieces, is encased in a 950 platinum case and features an openworked sapphire dial that beautifully exposes the complex inner workings of the watch. The mechanical intricacies include a complete calendar mechanism that accurately displays the day, date, and month, requiring minimal adjustment. The watch is powered by the refined Calibre 2460 QCL/2, a self-winding movement developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, known for its reliability and precision. This calibre ensures that all functions are easily adjustable via the crown, adding a layer of convenience to its luxurious design.
Bvlgari – Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari has yet again redefined the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking with its new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. This watch, which now holds the title of the world’s thinnest tourbillon, measures just 1.85 mm in thickness, showcasing Bvlgari’s exceptional mastery in combining mechanical innovation with aesthetic elegance. The heart of this horological
achievement is the BVF 900 tourbillon calibre, a manually wound mechanical movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. This piece embodies Bvlgari’s dedication to mechanical excellence, featuring a skeletonized tourbillon that is not only an essential timekeeping component but also a significant design element, enhancing the watch’s modern and minimalist aesthetic. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon’s breakthrough design and advanced mechanics celebrate Bvlgari’s enduring legacy of setting new standards in the art of watchmaking, making it a landmark in the brand’s pursuit of combining the quintessence of fine watchmaking with radical design.
A. Lange & Söhne – Minute Repeater Perpetual
A. Lange & Söhne is set to captivate the horological world at Watches and Wonders with the unveiling of the Minute Repeater Perpetual, an exquisite blend of two of watchmaking’s most complex complications. Limited to 50 pieces, this masterpiece is encased in 950 platinum and features a newly developed manually wound movement, the Calibre L122.2, which expertly combines a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. The watch displays intricate craftsmanship, such as a high-precision lunar cycle that requires adjustment only once every 122.6 years, and a sophisticated striking mechanism that eliminates pauses for seamless auditory pleasure. The aesthetics are equally refined, with an enamel dial and a harmonious integration of traditional and innovative design elements, making it a significant highlight of this year’s show.
Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Grande Complication
Roger Dubuis celebrates the 30th anniversary of its namesake Maison with the launch of the Excalibur Grande Complication at Watches and Wonders. This timepiece, limited to just 8 pieces, is a profound expression of horological artistry, combining three of watchmaking’s most prestigious complications: a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and a tourbillon within a single movement. This watch not only highlights Roger Dubuis’s mastery in the craft with each component meticulously hand-decorated to achieve the Poinçon de Genève certification, but it also showcases innovative design elements like a Biretrograde display. The perpetual calendar’s accuracy extends into the next century without needing adjustment, and the minute repeater’s tritone chime offers a melodious time announcement, while the tourbillon enhances the movement’s precision. Encased in a 45 mm pink gold frame and paired with an interchangeable 3D brown calf-skin leather strap, the Excalibur Grande Complication represents a pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking.
Hublot – Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater 20th Anniversary Blue Carbon
Hublot unveiled the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater 20th Anniversary Blue Carbon model at Watches and Wonders, a standout piece that combines state-ofthe-art materials with complex horological features. This unique edition is limited to celebrating 20 years of the Big Bang revolution, embodying innovation with its carbon fiber and blue Texalium upper layer case that measures 43mm in diameter. The watch houses the HUB8001 manufacture movement, a manual-winding tourbillon with a cathedral minute repeater, offering a minimum power reserve of 72 hours and featuring a tourbillon escapement. The design is enhanced with a matte black skeleton dial, and the carbon fiber and blue Texalium bracelet with a black-plated titanium deployant buckle underline Hublot’s commitment to fusing advanced materials and sophisticated mechanical functions, setting a new benchmark in luxury watchmaking.
Panerai – Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, represents a pinnacle of innovation in high-complication watchmaking. Crafted from Panerai’s proprietary Platinumtech material, the 44mm case enhances durability and aesthetics, complemented by a striking blue sapphire crystal dial that provides a transparent view into the sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanics. This model is equipped with the P.4100 caliber, an automatic mechanical movement boasting a three-day power reserve, and features Panerai’s patented GMT spring and date shock protection system, ensuring reliability and precision. Additionally, the watch includes a user-friendly adjustment system, allowing all settings to be changed via the crown without the need for additional tools. Designed for versatility and elegance, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT is completed with a dark blue alligator strap with a vintage patina finish and a blue rubber strap, making it suitable for various occasions.
Montblanc – 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition
Montblanc celebrates legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner’s ascent of Mount Vinson with the 2025 launch of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition at Watches and Wonders. Limited to 986 pieces, this timepiece is a tribute to the adventurer’s completion of the Seven Summits Challenge. It features a 43.5mm titanium case with a unique middle case made from a composite of quartz and basalt fibers, reflecting the deep blue hues of ancient glacial ice, a theme that extends to the watch’s glacier-patterned dial. The dial showcases a worldtime complication with twin hemisphere globes and a moon phase indicator, while the zero oxygen technology within the case ensures longevity and clarity under extreme conditions. This model also debuts a new, breathable, and interchangeable rubber strap, enhancing both comfort and style for the modern explorer.
BOVET – Récital 30
BOVET revolutionizes the world of horology with the introduction of the Récital 30, taking a significant leap forward in global timekeeping. This innovative timepiece features an ingenious roller system that accurately displays time across 25 time zones, adjusting for different daylight saving times around the world, ensuring unparalleled accuracy throughout the year. The Récital 30 is designed for the world traveler, with a clear emphasis on simplicity and utility, seamlessly merging a 24-hour world time dial with a day/night indicator at its center. This model stands out not only for its technical excellence but also for its commitment to aesthetic refinement, showcasing BOVET’s expertise in marrying high watchmaking with practical innovations tailored for everyday use.
TAG Heuer – Carrera featuring Beads-of-Rice bracelet
In a stylish nod to its heritage, TAG Heuer revitalizes a classic design element at Watches and Wonders 2025 with the reintroduction of the Beads-of-Rice bracelet for its Carrera Collection. This bracelet, originally celebrated for its sophistication in the 1960s, is reimagined for contemporary wear while retaining its vintage appeal. The redesigned bracelet features alternating rows of polished steel links that mimic grains of rice, refined for today’s standards with enhanced ergonomics for better comfort and fit. The new design is specifically tailored for the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, pairing seamlessly with the iconic watch models, including the recent black and signature blue chronographs, as well as the 2024 “Panda” and “teal green Dato” models, merging classic allure with modern functionality. This update highlights TAG Heuer’s commitment to maintaining the integrity of traditional aesthetics while evolving to meet modern demands.