At Geneva Watch Days, our very own Katia Jundi of Katsbling sat down with Jean Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari, to discuss the evolution of the Geneva Watch Days fair and Bvlgari’s latest innovations in watchmaking. From the fair’s inception during the COVID-19 pandemic to its growth into a significant event supported by prestigious organizations, Babin shares his vision for creating a platform that celebrates both established and emerging watch brands. In this insightful conversation, they explore Bvlgari’s unique approach to design and innovation, the introduction of new melodies in chiming watches, and the brand’s commitment to crafting contemporary, sophisticated timepieces that resonate with today!s luxury consumers.
[KJ]: This fair is kind of like your baby. You were one of the first brands to come on board, conceptualize it, and launch it. Now, it’s in its sixth year, right? Fifth edition?
[JCB]: Fifth edition. We started in 2020, right during COVID, just because the traditional fairs decided not to run that year. I called some friends from different brands and said, “Look, it’s impossible. Watchmaking needs an exhibition of novelties.” COVID wasn’t everywhere at the same time; it was rotating around the planet, so we found a window for exhibiting. We might have had fewer brands and participants, but we also used digital tools like Zoom to present products in the morning to Asia and in the afternoon to America. And that’s how it started.
Five years later, it’s becoming something very institutional. We are supported by the state of Geneva, the Fédération des Haute Horlogerie, the Chamber of Commerce, and every year, new brands join. I’m very glad this year that Breguet & Limpin decided to join because this adds to the fair’s prestige. We need big names, but it’s also about inclusion and diversity, promoting emerging brands. Without Geneva Watch Days, these new brands wouldn’t be able to meet with retailers or benefit from media coverage since they can’t afford it alone.
[KJ]: So what is the objective for this year, specifically, for you?
[JCB]: We’ve divided our novelties because we have about 60 new watches per year. It’s not a strict rule. Bvlgari covers all categories—Grande Complications, jewelry watches, daily women!s and men!s watches. No other brand does that. So, 60 novelties must be understood in that context.
To focus on a few but very important ones, we’ve split the year into three presentations. One with the other LVMH watch brands in January, this year in Miami; another during Watches & Wonders; and the last one here. Each has a special SKU.
This year, our focus is on high-end watches for both ladies and gentlemen. We are reinventing the Chiming watch for the first time in 223 years, moving away from the traditional Westminster Bell melody to a new, asymmetric, and dissonant melody created with Lorenzo Viotti, our brand ambassador. It creates more tension, more dynamics, and is more Italian.
[KJ]: You’ve “Italianized” it.
[JCB]: Yes, exactly. Bvlgari watchmaking leverages Swiss technological know-how, but from design to senses like music, we are very Italian. It!s strange that no brand in over two centuries thought of an alternative to Westminster.
[KJ]: That’s unique. The new melody is really different—more dynamic and feminine.
[JCB]: Yes, it!s been completely reinvented. Bvlgari is one of the few chime makers in Switzerland. We are very used to chimes. One day, we thought, “Why are we still using the Big Ben melody after two centuries?” So, we developed a new melody with our watchmasters and Lorenzo Viotti, using the tritonic interval. It breaks the symmetry and creates tension, known historically as the “devil!s interval.”
[KJ]: Was there any resistance to that? Breaking a tradition that’s been around for so long?
[JCB]: Surprisingly, there wasn’t. Chimes are a very complex specialty, and there are fewer than 10 brands in Switzerland today capable of crafting them internally. Our watchmasters, who are in their 50s or 60s, were very open to changing the sound. They were excited to create something new and different.
[KJ]: That’s fantastic. How does this innovation translate to your women’s pieces?
[JCB]: We’ve seen great success with our Tubogas collection, including both daily wear and sophisticated editions. We’ve kept our secret watches alive, even moving back to mechanical movements from quartz. Our Piccolissimo, launched three years ago, is the smallest movement ever on the market at 1.3 grams. Now, we’re launching jewelry watches that are no longer quartz, which can be easily customized and maintained without sending the entire piece back.
[KJ]: That’s great for personalization.
[JCB]: Yes, it!s very important. Women today want pieces that feel unique. Our watches can be customized easily and quickly, which is crucial for today!s market. Nobody wants to wait years for a bespoke piece.
[KJ]: Exactly. And that’s what makes your pieces stand out—modern, unique, and personal.
[JCB]: Absolutely. This is what Bvlgari is about—combining innovation with contemporary design to match the tastes of today!s luxury consumers. Our clients are younger, more modern, and want their accessories to fit their lifestyles. We!re committed to meeting those expectations.
[KJ]: Thank you, Jean Christophe. It’s been a pleasure.
[JCB]: Thank you, Katia. Always a pleasure to share our passion.